Barbecue is more than just food—it’s a tradition, a celebration, and for many of us, a labor of love. There’s nothing quite like the smell of meat smoking low and slow, the anticipation of a perfectly cooked pork shoulder or brisket, and the satisfaction of sharing it with friends and family. As someone who’s spent years perfecting my craft on my own ugly drum smoker, barbecue is a big part of my life. I fire it up every Thanksgiving for pork shoulder and brisket, or ribs just because I feel like it.
But have you ever stopped to wonder where barbecue really comes from? Not the regional sauces or modern barbecue competitions, but its true origins? As a GenXer, I can’t resist digging into the truth, cutting through myths, and finding the real story behind things. And when it comes to barbecue, the truth is as rich and smoky as the food itself: Barbecue as we know it originated with enslaved African Americans.
The Origins of Low and Slow
The South loves to claim barbecue as its own, and technically, they’re not wrong. Barbecue as a cultural institution was born in the Southern states. But the methods and flavors we love today didn’t come from the plantation owners or “normal folks” of the time. They came from the ingenuity of enslaved African Americans.
Enslaved people were often given the toughest, least desirable cuts of meat—things like pork shoulder, ribs, and brisket—that the wealthy plantation owners didn’t want. These cuts were too tough to roast or fry, but enslaved cooks, drawing on African and Caribbean cooking traditions, figured out how to make them not just edible but extraordinary. They smoked the meat slowly over wood fires, using seasoning and patience to tenderize it and bring out incredible flavors.
What started as a necessity—a way to survive on scraps—became an art form. The slow-smoking techniques, the spice blends, and the sauces they developed laid the foundation for the barbecue we know and love today.
When the South “Discovered” Barbecue
At first, barbecue was just “slave food,” something the plantation owners ignored. They were too busy enjoying their prime cuts to bother with the time and effort it took to prepare the tougher parts of the animal. But eventually, they couldn’t ignore the smells wafting from the slave quarters or the fact that this “low and slow” method produced tender, flavorful meat.
Over time, barbecue became a staple of plantation events and celebrations, with enslaved cooks often tasked with preparing large quantities of food for gatherings. Plantation owners may have claimed the tradition as their own, but the real credit belongs to the people who created it out of necessity and ingenuity.
The African Roots of Barbecue
Barbecue’s origins also tie back to African cooking techniques. Slow-smoking meat over wood fires was a common method in West Africa, where many enslaved people came from. This practice merged with the Taino people’s barbacoa (a wooden structure used to smoke meat) and European flavors, creating a unique fusion that became Southern barbecue.
The sauces we love today—vinegar-based in the Carolinas, mustard-based in South Carolina, and tomato-based in Kansas City and Texas—all have roots in the seasoning traditions of enslaved cooks. These cooks blended African spices and flavors with locally available ingredients, creating sauces and rubs that are now iconic.
A Legacy of Resilience
The story of barbecue is a story of resilience. Enslaved African Americans turned hardship into opportunity, creating something enduring out of what others discarded. Their creativity and perseverance gave us a tradition that brings people together to this day.
As a pitmaster, I feel a connection to this legacy every time I fire up my smoker. My ugly drum smoker isn’t fancy, but it’s been my trusted companion for years. Whether I’m smoking a pork shoulder for Thanksgiving or brisket just because, I know I’m carrying on a tradition that spans generations. It’s humbling to think that the techniques I use today—low and slow, wood smoke, carefully crafted rubs—were perfected by people who had to make do with so little.
Barbecue Today: A Shared Love, Unequal Credit
Today, barbecue is celebrated across the country, with regions like Texas, Kansas City, and the Carolinas claiming their own styles. But the story often overlooks its true origins. The next time you’re at a barbecue joint or firing up your grill, take a moment to remember the people who created this tradition. Barbecue isn’t just Southern—it’s African American. It’s a slavery tradition adopted by many, a testament to the creativity and resilience of people who turned scraps into something sacred.
GenX Truth-Telling
As a true-blue GenXer, I believe in cutting through the noise and getting to the truth. Barbecue isn’t just about food—it’s about history, culture, and the power of turning something bad into something good. It’s a tradition that belongs to all of us now, but we should never forget where it started and who made it great.
So the next time you’re smoking a brisket or savoring a rack of ribs, think about the people who made it possible. Honor their legacy by keeping the tradition alive, sharing it with others, and maybe even perfecting your own ugly drum smoker.
Because that’s what barbecue is all about—community, creativity, and a little bit of smoke.
